Suzhou Labelong Packaging Machinery CO.,LTD
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my vacuum former
by：Labelong Packaging Machinery
2020-04-12
Before I started building my own vacuum cleaner, I did a lot of research on various DIY websites.
I found a lot of helpful tips and designs.
In the end, I decided to design components from several different.
My design was by no means perfect, but it did the work and it was quite cheap to build.
It can form a piece of 33 \"x 22 \".
I started with a basic five-sided wooden box of a half-inch scrap board.
This will be the infrared \"oven \".
24 inch deep, 35 inch long and 24 inch wide.
This is very direct.
As I said, before I started, I studied many different designs and found that I prefer the infrared light as my heat source, because frankly, I think if I try to build my own heating element I will burn my house.
I even thought about buying three electric pancake clips, tying them side by side in a box and putting them on a plastic sheet.
I tried it with a baking tray and it worked fine, although my wife was not happy with me taking it away in the garage.
I have used ten infrared heating lamps in total and you can buy them at any hardware store.
There are four 250 watt bulbs, six 125 watt bulbs and a 1200 watt patio heater.
I already have the patio heater so I merged it but I\'m sure I can replace it with another 4 250 watt bulbs.
This gives me nearly 3000 watts of heat.
The bulb is mounted on a standard 120 V 600 W fixture.
You find the kind that is installed in the attic, garage, or rafter in the basement.
They don\'t have a pull cord or switch built in.
When calculating the position of the bulb, I have to take into account the thickness of the insulation board, which I will explain later. I\'m in front. . .
This part worries me the most.
I was hoping that all lines would use junction boxes and romex, but I decided to be careful when the budget was low.
The cost of wiring for 40 feet is $3.
00 compared to all romex and junction boxes that need $60. 00.
However, I did make the wire too large and used a whole roll of tape on each wire nut to reassure me.
I use three circuit connections to avoid tripping the circuit breaker in my home.
A circuit is a terrace heater.
The Second Circuit is the four 250 watt bulbs in the middle.
The Third Circuit is six 125 watt bulbs outside.
Each circuit has its own wires.
This configuration is designed to minimize the load on any of my circuit breakers.
I can plug the whole thing into my garage circuit, but I\'m not just because I\'m paranoid that the builders of my tract house are doing a terrible job of wiring.
Another benefit of this configuration is allowing me to control the heat required for different thickness and material types.
For thinner material I can use the patio heater or the patio heater and four 250 watt bulbs.
For thicker material, I can turn on six 150 watt bulbs.
I put the whole thing at the bottom of one of my old doorman carts.
The bottom shelf serves as a cavity for wire storage and protection.
Obviously, the pellet board and enough heat to cook the turkey in about an hour is not a good combination, so I think I should heat the heat box.
I found several uses for the insulation board.
First, they prevent the particle plate from getting too hot.
Second, since the plastic plate is a kind of cover for the Heat chamber, the insulation plate helps to keep the heat under the plastic instead of letting the heat into the air.
Third, the panel is made of galvanized steel, which helps diffuse infrared radiation when the infrared radiation moves up. (
I promise you, I\'m only half done. .
The insulation plate is a metal plate of 24 specifications.
They are made up of two square \"pots\" with 1 inch thick insulation between them.
Then turn over the pot together.
The top of one of the pans has a longer edge, where I form a passage that can hook to the sides of the wood.
I am a trade sheet metal worker so I have done a similar panel before and I can get the material for free.
I can use an insulating blanket if I can\'t reach the metal, it has a foil side and the foil sticks directly to the wood.
Since the bottom of the box is not exposed to that much heat, I decided to cover it only with insulation.
The panel works very well.
There is absolutely no obvious temperature rise on the outside of the box or on the inner surface of the wood, even if the inside reaches 450 degrees.
The vacuum gauge consists of 3 layers of 3/4 granular plates.
There are about 500 3/16 holes on the top floor, and an inch hole is drilled in the center.
The foam rubber belt has a 2 inch edge and can provide a good air-tight seal between the frame and the vacuum gauge.
The second layer is just a frame with a 2 inch border, which will provide a gap between the top and the bottom.
The third layer is a solid board with a 1/2 hole for connecting the vacuum hose.
I insert a 1/2 \"male wire to 1 1/2\" female slip pvc fitting into the hole at the bottom of the vacuum gauge and glue it in place with a strong epoxy resin.
1 1/2 \"fitting is perfect for my vacuum.
The tape in the picture is just a cheap way to connect in a non-permanent way.
Most of the building frame instructions I found use some sort of aluminum window frame.
According to my design, I fixed two halves together with a wood frame and several bolts.
I do this because when I pick up the frame and put it on a vacuum table, the wood doesn\'t pass too much heat to my hand, and I \'ve paved the wood.
Finally, hot boxes, vacuum tables and frames are stackable for easy storage and the whole thing rolls straight to the remote corner of my garage.
I found a lot of helpful tips and designs.
In the end, I decided to design components from several different.
My design was by no means perfect, but it did the work and it was quite cheap to build.
It can form a piece of 33 \"x 22 \".
I started with a basic five-sided wooden box of a half-inch scrap board.
This will be the infrared \"oven \".
24 inch deep, 35 inch long and 24 inch wide.
This is very direct.
As I said, before I started, I studied many different designs and found that I prefer the infrared light as my heat source, because frankly, I think if I try to build my own heating element I will burn my house.
I even thought about buying three electric pancake clips, tying them side by side in a box and putting them on a plastic sheet.
I tried it with a baking tray and it worked fine, although my wife was not happy with me taking it away in the garage.
I have used ten infrared heating lamps in total and you can buy them at any hardware store.
There are four 250 watt bulbs, six 125 watt bulbs and a 1200 watt patio heater.
I already have the patio heater so I merged it but I\'m sure I can replace it with another 4 250 watt bulbs.
This gives me nearly 3000 watts of heat.
The bulb is mounted on a standard 120 V 600 W fixture.
You find the kind that is installed in the attic, garage, or rafter in the basement.
They don\'t have a pull cord or switch built in.
When calculating the position of the bulb, I have to take into account the thickness of the insulation board, which I will explain later. I\'m in front. . .
This part worries me the most.
I was hoping that all lines would use junction boxes and romex, but I decided to be careful when the budget was low.
The cost of wiring for 40 feet is $3.
00 compared to all romex and junction boxes that need $60. 00.
However, I did make the wire too large and used a whole roll of tape on each wire nut to reassure me.
I use three circuit connections to avoid tripping the circuit breaker in my home.
A circuit is a terrace heater.
The Second Circuit is the four 250 watt bulbs in the middle.
The Third Circuit is six 125 watt bulbs outside.
Each circuit has its own wires.
This configuration is designed to minimize the load on any of my circuit breakers.
I can plug the whole thing into my garage circuit, but I\'m not just because I\'m paranoid that the builders of my tract house are doing a terrible job of wiring.
Another benefit of this configuration is allowing me to control the heat required for different thickness and material types.
For thinner material I can use the patio heater or the patio heater and four 250 watt bulbs.
For thicker material, I can turn on six 150 watt bulbs.
I put the whole thing at the bottom of one of my old doorman carts.
The bottom shelf serves as a cavity for wire storage and protection.
Obviously, the pellet board and enough heat to cook the turkey in about an hour is not a good combination, so I think I should heat the heat box.
I found several uses for the insulation board.
First, they prevent the particle plate from getting too hot.
Second, since the plastic plate is a kind of cover for the Heat chamber, the insulation plate helps to keep the heat under the plastic instead of letting the heat into the air.
Third, the panel is made of galvanized steel, which helps diffuse infrared radiation when the infrared radiation moves up. (
I promise you, I\'m only half done. .
The insulation plate is a metal plate of 24 specifications.
They are made up of two square \"pots\" with 1 inch thick insulation between them.
Then turn over the pot together.
The top of one of the pans has a longer edge, where I form a passage that can hook to the sides of the wood.
I am a trade sheet metal worker so I have done a similar panel before and I can get the material for free.
I can use an insulating blanket if I can\'t reach the metal, it has a foil side and the foil sticks directly to the wood.
Since the bottom of the box is not exposed to that much heat, I decided to cover it only with insulation.
The panel works very well.
There is absolutely no obvious temperature rise on the outside of the box or on the inner surface of the wood, even if the inside reaches 450 degrees.
The vacuum gauge consists of 3 layers of 3/4 granular plates.
There are about 500 3/16 holes on the top floor, and an inch hole is drilled in the center.
The foam rubber belt has a 2 inch edge and can provide a good air-tight seal between the frame and the vacuum gauge.
The second layer is just a frame with a 2 inch border, which will provide a gap between the top and the bottom.
The third layer is a solid board with a 1/2 hole for connecting the vacuum hose.
I insert a 1/2 \"male wire to 1 1/2\" female slip pvc fitting into the hole at the bottom of the vacuum gauge and glue it in place with a strong epoxy resin.
1 1/2 \"fitting is perfect for my vacuum.
The tape in the picture is just a cheap way to connect in a non-permanent way.
Most of the building frame instructions I found use some sort of aluminum window frame.
According to my design, I fixed two halves together with a wood frame and several bolts.
I do this because when I pick up the frame and put it on a vacuum table, the wood doesn\'t pass too much heat to my hand, and I \'ve paved the wood.
Finally, hot boxes, vacuum tables and frames are stackable for easy storage and the whole thing rolls straight to the remote corner of my garage.
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